Bittersweet.

As I get closer and closer to the end of my service in South Africa, each day brings new emotions that can only be summarized by one of my favorite words: bittersweet. The last couple of weeks have really made my quickly approaching end date hit hard. Maybe it’s because two of my closest volunteers are leaving in December, maybe it’s end-of-the-year melancholy, or maybe it’s because my friends and coworkers have just acknowledged that I’m not staying in South Africa much longer (or as they wish, forever).

The last month or so I have been getting antsy to leave. My programs are finishing up, I’m passing projects to local counterparts, and I find myself with less to do.  I’m excited to travel for a couple of months and then to get a job (hopefully!) in the States. I’m ready to stop my nomad ways and be home with friends and family.  Leaving seemed so sweet.

Then, last week, the winds shifted.  All of a sudden I couldn’t imagine having to leave in December. My friends and counterparts started expressing to me how much I have made a difference and how many good things I have brought to the village. (It seemed I waited two years for this vote of confidence and thank you).  Parents wanted to make sure I warned them at least a month in advance before leaving.  Friends said they couldn’t say goodbye because they would cry.  I tried to treasure the painting-esque views, watching the storms come my way down the valley, knowing I’d miss it. I cherished the kids running after me on my daily runs, laughing hysterically because it really is that funny to run with a white girl. Mostly, I tried to imagine how I would say goodbye to the family, my family, which made it clear from day one that I belonged. How to say a goodbye that, unlike most, seems so definite. Leaving seemed so bitter.

Luckily, I still have about four more months in South Africa to treasure the place and the people I have come to love.  I plan to spend my last months just loving everything and soaking it in, not worrying about anything else. One thing is for certain, though, leaving is always bittersweet.

Thanks to all you TOMS Shoes wearers

As most of you know, TOMS gives a pair of shoes away for every pair of shoes that is bought. I know I’ve always wondered where those shoes end up, and now I know! I was able to work with local Giving Partners to organize for shoes to be given to every learner at the primary school in my area. The teachers and I spent a couple of days passing out all of the shoes, which are black canvas, so that they can be worn as part of the school uniform.  It was a ton of fun getting to see all of the learners receive shoes, and the fun didn’t stop there. The next week, I had every single parent in the village stop me to thank me for the wonderful shoes and everything I have done. Now that’s what I call a pick me up.

Volunteering at the Hospital (aka playing with cute kids)

Last month, I started volunteering at the local hospital every Friday morning. I go to the Pediatric Ward at 8am, just after everyone bathes. I usually bring some kind of craft (crayons, beads, etc) to get the morning started. I spend the morning playing with the kids (nothing more, nothing less) and it makes their week.  A lot of the kids aren’t there from one week to the next because they are discharged but some are in on a long term basis, depending on their illness.

One of my favorite baby boys is about two years old. He has the fattest cheeks I have ever seen and loves to pick things up only to throw them on the ground. He was abandoned on the side of the road and brought to the hospital.  He needs more love than anyone I’ve ever met and cries every time he is put down (but you can’t really blame him).  On my second visit, he decided I was his mom and kept trying to go for my non-existent breast milk.  He would call after me, “Ma! Ma!” even after the other kids and I explained his mom wasn’t around. If I could take one baby home with me, he’d win hands down.

Another one of my favorites is a young boy who has spinal TB that has left him temporarily paralyzed from the waist down.  Even through months in the hospital, he is one of the happiest kids I know.  As soon as I walk through the doors, he is calling me over, insisting I get him into a wheelchair. The first time I brought him outside, he flung himself onto the ropes of the play set and pulled himself up to the top. I was terrified he would fall but he was fearless.

A lot of times the pediatric ward can be gloomy: sad stories, sad conditions, sick kids; but, as I’ve gotten to know a couple of patients, what’s really amazing is their resilience.

Recent Happenings

Mother/Daughter Art Day

In South Africa, August is Women’s Month.  In celebration of the women that work at my organization as caregivers (caring for sick patients in their home), I held a mother/daughter art day. When I say I had a mother/daughter event, I mean it in the most unconventional sense. In South Africa, it is extremely common for random women family members to take in children for whatever reason. Maybe the mom is sick, working in a city, or just irresponsible.  Often times, an aunt or gogo (grandmother) ends up raising kids that aren’t hers without a second thought.  Since my event was for caregivers, I also told them they could bring the girls that they care for as patients.

 The day was centered on fun- doing arts and craft projects that they had never seen before. We made tie dye scarfs, pin wheels, bean mosaics, and decorated cupcakes.  When we were making bean mosaics one of the caregivers commented, “But this is dinner!” We explained that today it was just about fun.  All of the caregivers asked how they can make icing and I have a feeling we are going to start seeing iced cupcakes popping up all over the village. The women and their “daughters” all had a great time and got a day of stress-less fun that they more than deserved.

 

Computer Lessons

Last year, I asked my host mom, who is principal of the primary school in my village, if she would like shoes for her learners if I could get them donated. She replied, “Yes, but what I’d really like is some computers.” The search began.  A couple of months ago, I got computers donated and my (real) family helped pitch in with a printer, projector, and overhead projectors. Obviously, most people’s responses to overhead projectors are something like, “wow, those are so old. They are pretty much null.” My principal had a somewhat different response, “Look how beautiful. We are really going to be a technologically savvy school now.”

After many challenges to get the computer lab up and working, I have finally started computer classes. I am teaching the teachers how to use them so that they can teach their students.  Some of the teachers are catching on quickly whereas some are a little slower (it is amazing what we take for granted, having grown up using computers).  Teaching the teachers is comparable to teaching our grandparents the newest technology: a little bit slow, a little bit frustrating, but overall rewarding. One of my main problems is explaining how to use a mouse-especially when you need to go from insert to table, to insert table while keeping every new extension open (yikes!). The teachers are excited to be learning and go crazy with each new program and each new skill. Hopefully soon we will have learners that can type like pros!

 

 

A successful Camp GLOW: 29 June-2 July

In a village where “Africa Time” is the norm, I walked to the organization’s offices to find all of the Camp GLOW girls already eagerly waiting outside of the gate, ready to leave for camp. People were early in South Africa?! Wow, they must have been really excited. We loaded up two mini-buses and took off on the hour long trek to camp with house music blaring and the girls screaming out of the windows the entire time. The first day began with games to get to know each other and team time (team hearts, stars, and suns).  After lunch, we had a session on what sisterhood means and why it is important. Then the girls got their first exposure to good ol’ fashioned tie dye shirts. The first day ended with a movie night and popcorn.  Day two started with a ropes and team building adventure course.  The girls zip-lined, climbed walls, crossed rickety bridges and passed through net obstacles, strategizing how to get everyone through together.  While most Americans have several exposures to similar courses, this truly was a unique experience for these girls and I have a feeling they’ll be telling zip-lining tales when they are gogos (grannies). In the afternoon we had sessions on stereotyping, discrimination, and goal setting.  We did an activity where girls with braids or long hair got candy and had a dance party while everyone else had to sit and watch. We then discussed how it felt to be in both groups and the different discrimination we have in our own lives. (Don’t worry, everyone got candy in the end).  Another activity was about how to set and achieve realistic goals and we shared our five and ten year dreams.  At night, we had a bonfire and taught the girls the art of smore making. In South Africa, marshmallows only come in flavors-strawberry, grape, you name it.  It definitely puts a spin on the classic smore.  The bonfire quickly turned into a giant dance party. The great thing about dancing is that even the shyest of girls love getting in the middle of the circle to show off their moves. Even the ‘umlungu’s (white people) were pulled in to show off our (not nearly as talented) dance moves. The girls sang traditional songs for hours, stopping only when we had to make them go inside.  Day three began with puberty, healthy relationships, and safe sex activities.  We started by making puberty mummies. The mummies are made by saran wrapping someone’s body, cutting it off, taping it up, and stuffing it with paper.  The girls then drew signs of puberty on the mummy. They got really into it, adding heads, weaves (hair), and taking time to shape the mummy. We then played a game that explored the myths and facts of puberty, sex, and pregnancy.  We talked about healthy relationships by talking about couples in a very popular South African soap opera. As is probably true for most soap operas, very few of the characters are in a healthy relationship (drama drama drama).  We talked about why we wouldn’t want their relationships and what kind of things we want in a relationship.  The highlight of the sex talk was the condom races; to see who can properly put a condom on a cucumber. After lunch, we had a talk about HIV/AIDS and how to best respond to peer pressure.  True to my New Mexican roots, I taught everyone the dream catcher tradition and we each made our very own.  That night we talked about self-esteem and the importance of loving yourself. We all wrote nice things about each other and journaled about our good qualities. Then, it was time for a pamper session complete with face masks, makeup, and nail polish.  The final day started with a talk on supporting people with HIV and ended with a picture slideshow (which is always a huge hit) and games. Everyone had a great time and was sad to leave.

It's Function Season

I had a wonderful weekend in my village, full of visits and celebrations.  On Saturday, I visited one of the high school teachers in a nearby village. She made chicken feet just for me. Even though I vowed to try everything once, I picked at the feet instead of giving it my all and gnawing on them. On Sunday, I was sitting outside enjoying the sun with my family when my host mom asked if I’d want to go visit a family member quickly. I said sure, changed into a skirt, and we were off. Little did I know I was walking into a full blown-traditional Zulu celebration.

It’s winter, meaning traditional celebrations (or “functions”) are in full swing. If you ask why there are so many celebrations in winter, the answer is, “Because meat stays longer”. Obviously.

How important a party is can be gaged by how many animals are slaughtered. The scale ranges from goat (small party, might make an appearance) to 2+ cows (big deal, gotta go). In general, if you ask, “What’s the celebration for?” the response is, “Not sure, two cows were slaughtered”. Many of the ceremonies are cleansing ceremonies, celebrating someone who passed away (even if not recently) and honoring ancestors. Zulus also have traditional celebrations for weddings, engagements, even 21^st birthdays.

Most traditional ceremonies follow the same routine. The men sit in the kraal outside, according to age and importance. The oldest men get the “best” part of the cow—the head…tongue, brain, you name it. The women sit inside a big rondavel (circular house).  Similar to a middle school dance, the men and women rarely, if ever, cross the lawn to mingle.  The traditional meal that is served consists of cabbage (cole slaw-form or cooked with a curry), beet root, spinach or swiss card, samp (cooked hominy) and beans, boiled chicken, squash, and rice or phuthu (made with corn meal and boiled water).  After the meal, presents are presented to the host. The host sits on a chair in the middle and everyone sings; one by one people drape clothes and blankets over the host.  At the very end of the day, a ton of food is brought out and put in the center of the room.  Women (who are in the family and of some importance) are selected to distribute the food. They pass out cakes, muffins, sodas, beers, fruit, jeqa (traditional steamed bread) and most importantly—boiled cow meat. Tons of cow meat.  Everyone who attends the celebration pulls out their empty plastic grocery bags and starts loading up. I guess you could say they are Zulu party favors.

Mix in a lot of dancing, and there you have it: a traditional Zulu celebration.

Having a bad day?

Want your heart to melt? Click below to see kids getting teddy bears!

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103971529395996876965/albums/5875531545426692417#photos/103971529395996876965/albums/5875531545426692417

A day in the life of...

I’ve been thinking for a while that it would be nice to write “A Day in the Life of…” blog post. While my life here may seem pretty normal and mundane to me, I have to remember that my definition of “normal” has a whole new scale! My day started out just like any other. Except, a typical day in Africa doesn’t usually turn out to be so typical. There are always twists and turns and surprises along the way. True to Africa fashion, my day was not what I expected.

I woke as the sun rose, shining through my window (which has been later and later as winter starts to creep in). My days start slow with a bowl of oatmeal and coffee. Lately, I’ve been watching an episode of Friends with breakfast. After 8 seasons, I feel as though I’m part of the gang with Joey, Chandler, Ross, Monica, Phoebe, and Rachel.  Walking to work, a man asked for my number and my hand in marriage (the usual).  I usually explain that I am a very expensive bride, “100 cows, please. And my father would like them shipped to America.” I have a 20 minute walk to the centre which is a nice way to start the morning, greeting everyone I pass on the way.  I did some office work before the electricity went out, made 30 pb&js for my girls club and was off to the high school with Mama Ruth, the lady who helps me with a lot of my projects. 

On Thursday afternoons, during the high school’s “sports day”, Mama Ruth and I do Grassroots Soccer with Grade 8. Today, our practice included me teaching the art of the limbo. (Limbo limbo limBO). After GRS practice, I hang around because my girls club meets after school.  I sat down with the teachers to watch the Grade 12 boys battle the Grade 10 boys in the term soccer tournament championship.  Grade 12 won in a shoot-out. Had I not known where I was, I might have thought I was at a World Cup game with the fans going crazy in song and dance, the losing team laying on the pitch, and the winning team doing victory moves.  Everyone migrated back to the school for the award ceremony and I took a seat in the back to watch. That is, I sat in back until the teacher announced, “And to show you what an important event this is, we have a representative all the way from America!” I was then asked to be front and center of the show, handing out medals. (And yes, I did come all the way from America just for the high school term 2 soccer tournaments).

My girls club meets in a classroom after school. Many other learners stay until 4 to “study” but since none of the teachers stay late to supervise, I am pretty sure they do everything but study. Half way through a contemplative activity where the girls closed their eyes to imagine their future, there was a raucous outside. All of the girls sprinted to the window to see what was going on. FIGHTTTT!!! Then, ladies and gentlemen, I broke up my first real live fight. You should all be proud, I escaped without a scratch.

My days usually end around 4 and I head home to run and do Jillian Michaels 30 day shred. (This is a new, ambitious routine; I have to get my Spain vaycay bod on). At night, I visit with my host family, watch shows on my laptop, read, and try to keep my eyes open until 10. I know- I’m going wild in South Africa staying up until 10pm!

And that’s a typical (loose definition used) day in the life of me. Hope you enjoyed!

Click here if you want to see adorable pictures that will make your heart melt: https://plus.google.com/photos/103971529395996876965/albums/5875531545426692417#photos/103971529395996876965/albums/5875531545426692417

Check our our website!

I created and update this website for the organization that I work with in my village.

www.ourhope.org.za

Project Update!

I recently realized that a lot of my blog posts are about vacations and my mom confirmed: her friends think that all I do is travel. So, to ease all of your minds and prove that I do work (sometimes), here is a little update on two of the projects that I’m most excited about right now.

Primary School Computer Lab: Last year, I asked the primary school principal if she would like TOMS shoes for her learners if I could arrange it. She replied, “Yes, but I’d really like some computers instead.” While computers are a bit more expensive, I was determined.  There are probably less than 10 computers in my village, three of which are at the center where I work, one of which I own.  I applied to get donated computers and after a long wait, I finally heard back that the JCC of Durban is donating 10 computers to the primary school in my area! I am working with the principal (who coincidentally is also my host mom) to transport the computers, and set up a computer lab. I will then help train the educators on how to teach computer classes, and help out in classes until they are going smoothly. In a world where you can’t achieve anything without basic computer knowledge, I’m so excited that these kids will get a chance to learn. 

Zenzele Girls Club: After months of trying to start this club and failing, it finally started and is now the highlight of my week. 22 girls from Grade 8-10 meet with me every week to talk about important issues, do crafts, and eat snacks. We have talked about peer pressure, relationships, what boys are thinking, safe sex, and much more.  We’ve made friendship bracelets, cards, necklaces, and crafts galore.  As a Health Volunteer, the best parts are the condom races, the tampon demonstrations, and when the girls ask to be HIV tested. (I’m telling you, this is what every Health Volunteer dreams of.) A couple of weeks ago, we did an activity where the girls wrote down questions they would want a boy to answer. Then, I had boys their age answer the questions anonymously for the girls to see.  Some of the answers were so honest and great; some were too funny not to share. When asked, “One day, what kind of girl would you like to introduce to your family?” One boy answered, “Nobuhle Ndlovu” (my given isiZulu name). When asked, “What happens if you have sex or kiss with someone you don’t love?” One boy answered, “Prison.” I now have other girls asking me when the next club is so that they can join too!

Lovin Lesotho

I just got back from a great trip to Lesotho. If you’re like me, you’ve never heard of Lesotho and if you look on a map, you assume it’s part of South Africa. But, Lesotho is a small country that is right in the middle of South Africa. The whole country is mountainous (nicknamed The Mountain Kingdom). In fact, I can look up the valley I live in, look just past the cliffs, and see Lesotho.

We headed up Sani Pass, which is the most famous border crossing because of its zigzagging road that pretty much goes straight up (only 4 wheel drives allowed). We got to the top as it started to snow (replacing our breath-taking views with fog). The next morning our plans to drive across the country were foiled because the only road goes through Black Mountain Pass (which sounds ominous) and was covered with impassable snow. Determined to explore Lesotho, we went back down Sani Pass, back into South Africa, all the way around the southern side, and entered Lesotho again at Qacha’s Neck. We spent the whole day driving through the beautiful country side that is dotted with tiny villages.  Around 9pm, our second stroke of bad luck hit. Flat tire…ugh. Somehow our mighty Amarok truck was way too smart for us (and we had no manual). After about two hours of trying to get the spare out, we realized we couldn’t get the flat off because it was rusted on.  A local man with minimal English had been watching this debacle for the past couple hours so we decided to tell him we were giving up, sleeping in the car, and he could go home. He replied, “Oh no! The chief saw your lights and has sent me to retrieve you so that you may sleep at his house.” What?! Couldn’t he have mentioned something three hours earlier when we were freezing and muddy? The five of us disheveled Americans piled into their kitchen, glaring our head lamps into their eyes (no electricity), trying to speak the three words of Sesotho that we know. They gave us a double mattress and some blankets so all five of us squeezed on, spooning each other and holding each other for warmth….and the family just sat there…and watched us. The next morning we got the tire off (but not without a desperate call to the Peace Corps Safety and Security Officer who was nice to us even though it was 6 am on a Sunday). We finally made it to Semonkong which is a great lodge next to a small town.  Since Semonkong is so far from any city, a lot of the goods are still brought in on pony, there is little electricity, and the people are thrilled to have lekhooa (white people). Despite our lack of Sesotho and the villagers’ lack of English, we made friends over some traditional homemade beer.  The next day, we went on a pony trek to the Maletsunyane Falls. I named my pony Cruiser (Cruise for short, Cruisey-poo if feeling lovey). Even though I was terrified every time he galloped without my consent, I think we became pretty good pals. From Semonkong, we traveled to the capital, Maseru, and back into South Africa for a night in Clarens. Even though several things didn’t go according to plan, we had a great time and embraced the adventure, as always.

SIDE NOTE: Check out Facing AIDS. It's a neat awareness campaign. Check out a couple of pictures from our World AIDS Day Event--This picture and the previous 3 are people from my village!

http://facing.aids.gov/gallery-2011/facing-aids-because-i-teach-sex-with-a-condom-south-africa-isizulu/

teddy bears for everyone!

Mother Bear is an organization in the United States that knits teddy bears to send overseas to children who have been affected by HIV.  Thembalethu recently received three boxes of bears and have begun distributing them! Last week we were able to pass out bears to the crèche (pre-school) and Grade R (kindergarten). We look forward to passing them out to patients and OVC at our soup kitchens. The kids are just oh-so-cute.

Check out Mother Bear Project--http://www.motherbearproject.org/

Happy Holidays

Even though I missed the cold weather, the Christmas trees, and the family celebrations-I can’t really complain about how I spent my holiday.  I had planned to meet my family in Cape Town on December 30 and when some friends decided to do a 2 week road to Cape Town (along the Garden Route), arriving on December 29 I decided it was too perfect to pass up.  Since I could go on for hours, I’ll just give some highlights from each stop.

Storms River Mouth: We camped on the ocean and went on a great hike along the coast, ending at a waterfall that I would put in my Top 5.  Cascading down into a great swimming pool, it was only separated from the ocean by a rock wall.

The Crags: On the way, Chris and I said our prayers and jumped off the highest bungy bridge in the world. If you don’t jump, they give you a helpful nudge and the first 2 seconds of falling are some of the most terrifying I’ve experienced. Quite the adrenaline rush.  At the backpacker, we discovered some fellow PCVs were living and working there so we had a jolly reunion, including one of the most delicious farm stall lunches of all time.

Knysna (I’ll give you $100 if you can pronounce that correctly without googling it): One of the biggest towns on a gorgeous lagoon. We made it our mission to eat all of the most delicious food (which we did), including an all you can eat seafood West Coast-style braii. We also enjoyed some quality beach time and excellent views.

Sedgefield: Sedgefield was probably the best all-round beach we visited with warm waters and sand for miles. We spent Christmas Eve making fajitas (homemade tortillas and pico) and sharing Christmas traditions with our new backpacker buddies. I was even able to skype home for the annual goodnight Christmas stories read by Dad (I just missed the back tickle).  Christmas morning we made homemade bagels and mimosas, soaking in the last of the beach.

Oudtshoorn: We took an “adventure tour” of Cango Caves, having to climb, shimy, and crawl our way through. After a tasty ostrich burger for lunch, we headed to the ostrich farm for a tour where I got to ride an ostrich. Obviously, I was laughing hysterically the entire time.

Robertson: Robertson has a road full of wineries…and we hit them all. Free wine tastings and a handy dandy mormon DD led to a great day under the sun and surrounded on all sides by vineyards and mountains.

Hermanus: We went on a beautiful coastal walk and had fun meeting other backpackers, most on their way to the mother-city for New Year’s Eve.

Cape Town (the mother city): Bright and early, I met my family at the airport holding a chauffeur sign labeled, “Clauss Family”. To my disappointment, my mom didn’t even cry.  After settling in to our great apartment, we hit the streets, walking around Bo-kapp, city centre, and the waterfront.  At the waterfront, we stocked up on picnic goods at a market and made our way to Signal Hill for the sunset. To give my dad some credit, driving up hill, with an unusual stick shift, on the wrong side of the road is no easy task. Nevertheless, we were all happy to make it alive and crash-less.  The next day we climbed up (and down) Table Mountain from Kirstenbosch Gardens (and my mom couldn’t walk the next day).  Other highlights included celebrating New Year’s Eve, penguins at Simon’s Town, Cape of Good Hope, eating exotic meats with other PCVS, and of course, our wine tour of the Stellenbosch areas with Niki’s (another volunteer) family.  At the end of the wine touring, driving back to Cape Town, our guide announced over the microphone, “All right, we are headed home. Feel free to close your eyes and be quiet.” Instead, Niki’s dad commandeered the microphone and became the tour guide. The volume went up tenfold.

Hluhluwe/Sodwana/St. Lucia:  We stayed at an excellent B&B where my dad decided to pamper us, and get us all rooms.  We spent the whole first day driving around the game reserve where we saw everything except elephants and cats.  I was the first to spot an animal, winning the bet. Kevin was the last to spot an animal, losing the bet and owing me a massage. Only my family could make a safari competitive. In St. Lucia we went on a hippo and croc river tour and explored Slimangeliso Wetland Park.  In Sodwana, we went scuba diving and relaxed on the beach. That night we had a semi-proper braii-lots of meat and beer like the South Africans do it, but with some grilled veggies-which is oh, so American.

My Site: Our last stop was my village where my real family finally met my host family. And then, they fell in love.  We went on a great hike to two waterfalls in Cathedral Peak and had a Zulu party at my organization. Even my mom got up to gaita (traditional dance). 

Now alone once again, I am getting back to the slow village life. Hopefully as I get things going, I’ll have lots of other great stories to share!