Lovin Lesotho

I just got back from a great trip to Lesotho. If you’re like me, you’ve never heard of Lesotho and if you look on a map, you assume it’s part of South Africa. But, Lesotho is a small country that is right in the middle of South Africa. The whole country is mountainous (nicknamed The Mountain Kingdom). In fact, I can look up the valley I live in, look just past the cliffs, and see Lesotho.

We headed up Sani Pass, which is the most famous border crossing because of its zigzagging road that pretty much goes straight up (only 4 wheel drives allowed). We got to the top as it started to snow (replacing our breath-taking views with fog). The next morning our plans to drive across the country were foiled because the only road goes through Black Mountain Pass (which sounds ominous) and was covered with impassable snow. Determined to explore Lesotho, we went back down Sani Pass, back into South Africa, all the way around the southern side, and entered Lesotho again at Qacha’s Neck. We spent the whole day driving through the beautiful country side that is dotted with tiny villages.  Around 9pm, our second stroke of bad luck hit. Flat tire…ugh. Somehow our mighty Amarok truck was way too smart for us (and we had no manual). After about two hours of trying to get the spare out, we realized we couldn’t get the flat off because it was rusted on.  A local man with minimal English had been watching this debacle for the past couple hours so we decided to tell him we were giving up, sleeping in the car, and he could go home. He replied, “Oh no! The chief saw your lights and has sent me to retrieve you so that you may sleep at his house.” What?! Couldn’t he have mentioned something three hours earlier when we were freezing and muddy? The five of us disheveled Americans piled into their kitchen, glaring our head lamps into their eyes (no electricity), trying to speak the three words of Sesotho that we know. They gave us a double mattress and some blankets so all five of us squeezed on, spooning each other and holding each other for warmth….and the family just sat there…and watched us. The next morning we got the tire off (but not without a desperate call to the Peace Corps Safety and Security Officer who was nice to us even though it was 6 am on a Sunday). We finally made it to Semonkong which is a great lodge next to a small town.  Since Semonkong is so far from any city, a lot of the goods are still brought in on pony, there is little electricity, and the people are thrilled to have lekhooa (white people). Despite our lack of Sesotho and the villagers’ lack of English, we made friends over some traditional homemade beer.  The next day, we went on a pony trek to the Maletsunyane Falls. I named my pony Cruiser (Cruise for short, Cruisey-poo if feeling lovey). Even though I was terrified every time he galloped without my consent, I think we became pretty good pals. From Semonkong, we traveled to the capital, Maseru, and back into South Africa for a night in Clarens. Even though several things didn’t go according to plan, we had a great time and embraced the adventure, as always.

SIDE NOTE: Check out Facing AIDS. It's a neat awareness campaign. Check out a couple of pictures from our World AIDS Day Event--This picture and the previous 3 are people from my village!

http://facing.aids.gov/gallery-2011/facing-aids-because-i-teach-sex-with-a-condom-south-africa-isizulu/